State laws banning the use of PFA in clothing and textiles have significantly reduced the amount of toxic “permanent chemicals” used in products. Public health advocates say this is a major public health victory and underscores the value of protective policies.
However, some companies appear to be ignoring the law as their products still contain high levels of Pfas.
Approximately 80% of the approximately 115 products tested showed levels of PFAS that complied with state law. Products were purchased from Internet and brick-and-mortar retailers in New York and California that have implemented bans on the intentional addition of Pfas.
The tests looked at products from companies previously known to use the chemical. Products from Columbia raincoats, Lululemon pants, Moab shoes and other major brands showed extremely low levels of Pfas markers.
Report co-author Anna Reid, a senior scientist at the Natural Resources Defense Council, said the findings show that strong legislation is “making a difference.”
“It’s really encouraging to see such a dramatic change in such a short period of time. All of these brands have made the switch and none of them have had to shut down their operations as they move away from Pfas,” Reid added.
Pfas is a class of at least 16,000 compounds most frequently used to make products water, stain, and oil resistant. They are thought to be linked to cancer, birth defects, weakened immunity, high cholesterol, kidney disease, and a variety of other serious health problems. They are called “eternal chemicals” because they can persist in the environment for thousands of years and are designed to be indestructible.
This chemical is added to clothing and textiles as a stain inhibitor, odor barrier, UV protectant, and waterproofing agent. The most frequently seen items are boots, raincoats, and outdoor gear. Public health advocates have increasingly put pressure on companies to remove PFA from their supply chains in recent years, but many companies have resisted, arguing that no effective alternatives exist or that it would be too expensive to switch.
But some producers have begun switching to substitutes without being pressured to do so. As state laws began to create market pressure, other companies responded. It doesn’t make economic or logistical sense for companies to make Pfas-free clothing for sale in California, but it doesn’t make financial or logistical sense for companies to make Pfas-containing clothing for sale in other states, Reed said.
New York and California passed laws in 2022, and companies like Levi’s, L.L. Bean, Patagonia, and Old Navy largely eliminated the use of intentionally added Pfas by the end of 2024, just before the law went into effect on January 1, 2025. Pfas manufacturer Gore-Tex now makes alternative waterproofing agents that do not contain Pfas, but some of its products still contain the chemical.
Most clothing is not completely Pfas-free because the chemical is so widely used within the supply chain that it is difficult to identify the source of contamination. For example, Pfas lubricants are used in factory machinery in virtually every industry, and some residue can end up on consumer products.
However, it is difficult to determine whether companies are intentionally adding low levels of Pfas or whether the detected chemicals are unintentional contamination. Reid said about 70% of the products were found to be at levels that strongly suggest unintentional additions, and about 10% were found to be in the gray area.
Companies that made diapers, outdoor furniture, and pet supplies accounted for the majority of violations. Companies that exceed the limits can be reported to each state’s attorney general, and California plans to introduce an enforcement mechanism soon.
“The market is moving, and laggards need to move away from using PFAS now to protect consumers, regardless of where they shop,” Reed said.
